that said, i don't usually go to the surf contests. it's like watching golf. i don't know when the drop-in is amazing, or the ride is long, or anything really.
that said, when the eddie happens, you go.
now many-a-mainlander is most assuredly asking, "what's the eddie?"
go ahead... click and come back.
i'll wait.
in synopsis {just in case you didn't click}, the waves have to be 20 ft. face waves. so if you fall off the wave {sorry, don't know the real terminology} you're falling 20 feet. and when the wave crashes over you, it's a 20 foot wall of power crashing over you. and when your paddling out... well, you get it.
pic from here
it happened nearly two months ago. i went with a friend and 3 kiddos between us. i think my girls were more interested in the sand and snacks than the surf. but i was giggling in awe. seriously, it was literally AWEsome. the gasps of the ginormous crowd every time someone dropped in. the "ooo"s when they wiped out, the screams when the rode the wave all the way in... it was pretty exhilerating.
gwen just wanted my coke.
don't worry... it was empty.
and i guess that's kelly slater in this picture... the bald one. he turned his head away when i crouched down for the shot. maybe he had a bad pimple that day...
and can you see all the people in the background?!? it. was. packed. SOPACKED... tons of energy.
afterwards we grabbed some acai bowls from kava roots, where addi entertained some brazilian tourists, and headed to shark's to wave watch...
can you believe we snorkel here in the summer!?!?!
and that was the eddie 09. in a nutshell.
9 comments:
Just so you know I am totally jealous! I am in love with surfing...thought I have never been. That is on the bucket list! Enjoy it this summer...
I miss Hawaii!! So, a 20 foot swell is a 40 foot face.. which means you fall up to 40 feet. Which makes the Eddie even crazier (I read that on the links.) Your picture are so good now...next time we're there you're taking our family pictures!
So you know how people had posters of 90210 on their wall and they had Saved by the Bell? I had Kelly Slater, and Jonny Boy Gomes, and Andy and Bruce Irons. But my absolute favorite was Kelly. And he is sitting right there. He looks close enough to touch.
He's SO overrated! ;)
Of course it happened while we were in Colorado. Everyone there was asking us "so you're missing the contest with the epic waves, huh?" Well duh. The only crappy thing about being in Colorado that week. =)
I'm Brazilian. I want to be entertained by your daughter. I also want an acai bowl.
and I want to be in Hawaii again.
I also want your mad photo skills
love the photos!! and it was a fun day!!
That is amazing! oh, to live in Hawaii!
that was a gooooood time!
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